We said our goodbyes to Argentina (no, don´t cry for me....) and headed back to the border with Chile through the Samoré Pass, where yet again, the border guards would take apart our backpacks, rummage through our food, and toss out whatever they seemed to think was a threat to Chile´s agro-industrial complex. Not far from the border, we got dropped off on the side of the road and the very next day hiked up 1000m to a view of Volcan Puyehue... who´s 2011 eruption destroyed the fumeroles, geysers and hot springs we had so hoped to visit.
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| Volcan Puyehue looks benign but was nothing but on June 4, 2011. |
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| View looking south at the chain of other volcanoes |
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After the descent, waiting for a ride to Osorno, a big agro-cow town...
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After the hitch towards the coast, looking west to Chile´s Lakes Region
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| And the next day to Puerto Varas for some horsing around and well needed sleeping ins, idle strolls, and seafood stews. |
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| Stunning view of Lago Llanquihue and Volcan Osorno |
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| Mussel farming in Chilean Patagonia´s most northern fjord, Reloncavi Fjord. Baby mussels are then shipped to the eastern shores of the Isle of Chiloé, before their export to Spain (or so a farmer told us). |
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| The Fjord is teaming with shellfish farming. |
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| Our ride to a 3 day trek in the Cochamó Valley.... buddy stops by a friend´s place to fuel up! Self-service! |
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| The trek in was in stunning temperate rainforests along the Cochamó River... So much life! |
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| The beautiful Cochamo Valley (aka Chile´s Yosemite) is a climber´s and trekker´s dream... with 1000m granite domes, stunning valleys, waterfalls, old-growth temperate rainforests... the trail was first created by Argentine gauchos driving their cattle down from the mountains to sell in the little town of Cochamo (including Butch Cassidy). |
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| After hiking up valley, we started our ascent up the Arco Iris Mountain... this is looking east towards Argentina. |
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| Reaching the spine and the alpenglow views at sunset! |
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| The next morning, Noah headed to the peak of Arco Iris for an even better view...while Elysia had a morning nap (can you spot the tent on the spine below?) |
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| But it wasn´t long before the rain started and didn´t let up... as we carefully made our way back through some of the most stunning forests of the trip yet... |
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| Noah and an ancient manio tree |
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| When we got back down to the valley Noah remembered seeing a hut where we could spend the night out of the storm. Everything was drenched. The fire that would not start, finally started, and we managed to singe our boots and mostly dry out before hiking out the next morning, and back to Puerto Varas for a hot shower. What a trip! |
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| Our ride to the Isle of Chiloé... known for its independent spirit, friendliness and seafood. Their talking about building a bridge under the auspice of giving Chilotes better access to health care (on the main land, instead of funding health care on the main island). |
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| Every kitchen´s must: a large wood burning stove (the gas stove is usually left unused or doesn´t work). We wish we had taken photos of others kitchens along the way... |
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| House on stilts of Castro (the Islands´s capital). |
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| West coast shores of the island in Chiloé National Park... reminiscent of coastal Northern California and Oregon |
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| Boats and clouds on the west coast |
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| Chiloe´s earth and sky dream reflection... |
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| Castro´s fishing boats left high and dry |
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| Impressive Church of San Francisco in Castro... recently painted like an Easter egg. We unfortunately didn´t have the time to visit the dozens of wood-shingle Chilote-style churches scattered throughout the main and other islands. |
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| Inside, the Neo-Gothic arquitecture is ALL wood. |
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| Castro´s harbour side homes and hotels where we stayed... |
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| Reminding you to keep your wheels moving, bound to cover just little more ground. |
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