El Bolson and Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

Gorgeous Rio Azul near fields of rosehips

 

El Bolson is the hippie haven of Argentina: a declared non-nuclear zone and ecological municipality, a micro-climate that allows for hops and fruit growing, a diverse arts and crafts market 3 times a week that resembles a Grateful Dead parking lot, and a grocery store selling local sauerkraut. It´s not the prettiest town, but the mountains make up for it. (Plus it´s nearby where Butch Cassidy hid out down here for 10 yrs prior to returning to Utah.)

After spending a day wandering the market, we hiked with our Slovenian friends Miha and Kaja (we met rafting the Futa) along the Rio Azul and up part-way the adjoining mountain before calling it quits. El Bolson is packed with multi-day hikes, but we had to triage and save backpacking for futher North.

Rio Azul from above

Peeking in the sauna, on our way back we came across the home of Bioconstruyendo in Patagonia, experts and learners of all types of natural construction and permaculture.
 Very inspiring! 

The Padre´s (the godfather of bioconstruction in Argentina) house under construction

Backside of the communal den and kitchen (piped water through the hearth and mantel brings heat to the floors and sink).

A short bus ride north from El Bolson brings you to Bariloche and the renowned Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi (the mountains in the background). Bariloche is the sweetest town in Argentina because of the dozens of chocolate manufacturers.

Main plaza with the names of those killed during the Guerra Sucia (The Dirty War)

Bariloche tries to get into the Guinness book of world records for the largest chocolate egg! After a somewhat informative talk with the alpinist office, the Slovenians and
Can-Am decided to head out to the mountains of Nahuel Huapi for 3 days.

Day one is a slow ascent from the ski resort to Refugio Frey

Horse caravan bringing up cargo of natural gas and food (for the ¨bourgeoisie¨ who don´t pack their own).

Refugio Petricek: built by the community of Slovenian refugees who came to Argentina and Bariloche after WWII. Miha and Kaja recounted the history and shocking stories of Slovenian persecution and concentration camps.  

Possibly the best French bearded afro ever

Lago Frey with dawn´s alpenglow

View of the valley we came up, and yes, it snowed and howled all night! With our choice camping spot (thanks to a tip from a senior couple, still trekking at 70+) we stayed warm.

The next day´s journey to Refugio Jacob was simply stunning!

Going over the first pass

 

Blissful! We wish you were here with us!

Descent to valley floor before heading up to the ridge in the background

Canyon walls and waterfalls

Afternoon sun on the morning´s descent.

Descending to the Refugio Jacob.

The pre-blizzard snowfall, which became a bewildering 5 inches before taking rest.

 (Dude, where´s my tent?)

 

The morning sun cleared the sky...

for a magical final descent.  

 

Bamboo-infused snow latte. 

(While before we always thought you needed to go to Asia for that?)

Autumn´s delight tickles so sweetly

 while thoughts follow my vision...

 

...and dance in the sun!

Safe travels to Kaja and Miha back to Slovenia and guiding rafts this summer in Norway (after back to back seasons in Iceland and Chile). Studs!