Torres del Paine

Last you heard from us, we were in Ushuaia... now writing to you from Futaleufu, Chile. We´ve been mute and on the go! From Ushuaia we took a 11 hour bus to Punta Arenas (that ended up being 16 hours long due to high winds), and from there to Puerto Natales, the  base camp town of the National Park Torres del Paine. Our goal: 110 km of the O-circuit counter clockwise (from Lago Amarga) in 8 nights, 9 days ..when we set out on Monday afternoon, the forecast called for sun on Wednesday. Upon arrival to the Park, the administration said that the John Gardner Pass and the Valle Francés were closed (see map)...after a team huddle we decided to start out that evening for the valley of las Torres (clockwise, like Tibetans). The next day we were greeted with snow and winds that pushed us uphill, then swirled around us we hiked to the Mirador... a mystical view of the Torres awaiting us, backlit by the sunset and shrowded in clouds.

At dawn the next morning we hiked up again to get a very different view!

Wednesday`s forecast proved true. SUN!

Torres del Paine is also the home to the not-so-uncommon great blue slug. Staying toasty!

With the John Gardner pass still closed with snow we decided to head west (clockwise) to los Cuernos... not without many other highlights...

Monte Almirante Nieto and balmy weather

The unbelievable milky blue of the Lago Nordernskjold



UFO clouds

Cuernos del Paine from the east at sunset.Love the black sedimentary stratum on top of granite!

What the photos don´t show is the wind! It came in gusts over the lake, swirling in everywhich direction, lifting up sand and water, reversing the direction of the the streams flow, and literally stopping us in our tracks. That night we camped at one of the many private owned ´refugios´, using 15lbs rocks to weight down every guy line and corner of the tent (even then the tent almost flew away). The wind didn´t let up all night (no sleep!) and by morning, the tent was folding down onto us and the tarp torn. To boot, mice went through our food bags (which we left in the refugio´s building to keep them ´safe´...the mice would visit on 2 more occasions for a nibble).

 

Rainbows as we head to Paine Grande

And wind! At least you can see the gusts coming and hide!

By the time we reached the Valle Francés, it was open but raining and visibility low... we sadly missed seeing the Glaciar del Francés, and instead headed to the refugio del Paine Grande. Upside was the next morning´s awe-inspiring view and light!

Backpacking in Torres del Paine is full of incredible sights but people too (even in the shoulder season of March). Most common nationalities: Germans, French, English, Americans, Chileans, Australians, Japanese and Canadians.

Paine Grande and Los Cuernos (for realz, not photoshopped). Unicorns must live here!

 On this morning we set out on our most epic and tiring day yet... from Paine Grande to Campamento El Paso.

Lago Grey and icebergs

Fire in 2011 in this part of the Park

Lovely foxgloves meadows

Cordon Olguin

First view of Glaciar Grey! Woohoo!

The trail went through ancient forests and up along an old moraine. We spent the afternoon walking above the glacier in glorious sunshine. Divine!

Looking up!

More Glaciar Grey splendour

Looking west...more ice!

Just wow!

After a really cold night (i.e., trying to sleep above a glacier), we made our way up 900m to the Joe Gardner pass 

There was still snow, but the wind had let up... you´d think our packs would be lighter by day 6...

Over the pass and into the next valley

The receding Glaciar Los Perros

Rio Los Perros

Once in the valley we spent a day hiking in amazing old growth forest of southern beech (lenga).

Before going reaching Lago and Glaciar Dickson

Lago Dickson at dawn 

Luckily the sky cleared to show the back side of the Valle Francés

Love this place! what a spot!

Patagonia is full parakeets chowing down on the seed of trees. We first saw them in the Sierra Valdivieso (Ushuaia) and have pretty much seen them everywhere else we´ve hiked since.

Rio Paine on our hike out of the park

Last view of the Torres!

Sums it up... snow, wind, sun, rain, wind, sun...cold, hot... and totally unpredictable.
We got back to Puerto Natales very happy and tired!